I know you are here for the recipe, so we’ll get to it right away. However, if you are interested in some contextual background around this absolutely mouthwatering dish, you’ll find some tasty bits of information after the recipe.

This recipe comprises four stages:

1. Preparing the Do Pyaza spice mix – this spice mix keeps well in an airtight container or jar for up to a month so you can make it in advance, at your convenience.
2. Marinating the meat – it is better if the marinade is allowed to do its work for at least an hour, but if you are time-constrained, you could proceed to the next step right away.
3. Cooking the meat – two options are provided: using a pressure cooker or an oven. If you are preparing this dish for a special occasion, you could prepare the dish up to this stage a day before your event and refrigerate until about three hours before serving. Bring to room temperature and then proceed to the next step.
4. Finishing the dish – believe it or not, allowing the dish to rest for about 30 minutes before serving it allows for all the aromas and flavours to integrate marvellously. Reheat, if needed just before garnishing and serving.

1 – Preparing the Do Pyaza spice mix

Do Pyaza Masala Powder
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp caraway seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
A small blade of mace (optional)
1 star anise
1 x 2” cinnamon stick
2 cloves
7-10 black peppercorns
1/8 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp Kashmiri chili powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
½ tsp garam masala powder

1. 1. Using a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, grind the seeds of cumin, caraway, and coriander along with mace, star anise, cinnamon, cloves and peppercorn into a powder. Add the powdered spices into a clean, dry jar. Add the ground nutmeg, Kashmiri chili, turmeric and garam masala powder. Seal the jar and shake vigourously to mix well. Can be stored in an airtight container in a cool, dry cupboard for up to a month.

Should yield about 3.5 tbsp masala powder

2 – Marinating the meat

2 kg beef/mutton
1 ½ tbsp table salt
2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
2 green chillies, chopped
1 tbsp cumin powder
1 tsp turmeric powder

1. 1. Place meat in a large non-reactive bowl. Mix all marinade ingredients in a small bowl and pour over meat. Mix evenly into the meat. Marinade for about an hour, if possible.

3 – Cooking the meat

1/3 cup mustard or vegetable oil
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 black cardamoms, shelled, cracked
3 green cardamoms, shelled, cracked
1 x 1” stick cinammon
2 Bay leaves
3 yellow onions, thinly sliced – roughly 4 cups
2 tbsp ginger garlic paste
1 tbsp Kashmiri chili powder
½ tsp turmeric powder
2 large tomatoes, diced – about 1.5 cups
1 tbsp tomato paste
Prepared Do Pyaza Masala powder
1/3 cup plain (unflavored) yoghurt
Salt and pepper to taste

1. In a pressure cooker or large saucepan, heat the mustard or vegetable oil until shimmering over medium heat. (Note: Mustard oil burns quickly so monitor the heat source to avoid the oil burning) Fry cumin seeds, black and green cardamoms, cinnamon and bay leaves for about 30 seconds. Add the yellow onions and fry until translucent. Add ginger garlic paste and fry until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add Kashmiri chili powder and turmeric powder and fry for another minute.
2. In a small bowl, mix prepared Do Pyaza Masala powder and yogurt. Add to meat with tomatoes, and tomato paste and continue cooking for 2-3 minutes until the tomatoes soften.
3. Mix prepared Do Pyaza Masala to yogurt and add to the onion mixture with the marinated meat. Stir and partially cover with a lid. Continue cooking over medium heat for about 10 minutes until the meat releases its own juices. Add up to 1/4 cup water to reach the surface of meat, if needed.
4. If using a pressure cooker, cover, seal and cook as per manufacturer’s instructions, until the first alert of pressure reached in the cooker. Then reduce heat and continue cooking for another 20 minutes. Remove from heat and wait until pressure is dissipated.

Variation: If you do not have a pressure cooker, then cover the saucepan and continue cooking either in a 350°F preheated oven, or on the stovetop on medium low heat for about an hour. If using a stovetop, stir occasionally to avoid scorching at the bottom of the saucepan.

5. Remove lid and continue cooking (over stove, if oven was used in step #4) over medium heat until most of the liquid evaporates.

4 – Finishing the dish

¼ cup mustard or vegetable oil
2-3 large red onion, sliced in ¼” thick slices (about 4 cups) **Note: can be substituted by yellow onions**
3-4 green chillies, slit lengthwise
2” ginger, chopped
1 tsp garam masala powder
Salt and pepper to taste
1 tbsp sugar, optional
2 tbsp lime juice
2 tbsp white vinegar
1 tbsp Kasoori methi (optional)
2 tbsp vinegar

Garnish:
Coriander leaves, roughly chopped
Lime or lemon wedges

1. In a large saucepan or wok, heat oil until shimmering. Add onions, green chillies and ginger, and fry until onions start turning slightly brown on the edges, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle garam masala powder and stir until combined. Add to saucepan with meat and season with salt and pepper to taste.
2. Add sugar (optional) and lime juice. Stir in the vinegar, cover and remove from heat. If using kasoori methi, place it in the palm of one (clean) hand, cupped and massage it using thumb of your other hand for about 10 seconds to release aromas. Uncover the dish, sprinkle and give the Ghosht Do Pyaza a quick stir. Replace lid. Allow to rest before serving.
3. Garnish with coriander leaves and serve with lime or lemon wedges.

Enjoy!

dishing out the “do pyaza”

Growing up in Bombay (now Mumbai), dining at a “dhaba” was always a treat. Traditionally, dhabas were known to be little makeshift structures dotting the network of interstate highways, serving hot meals featuring local specialties to travellers. In fact, many of them were known to be open 24 hours a day to cater to the hungry truck driver or wandering explorer. In Bombay, however, these dhabas were considerably upscale, but often reflected interiors reminiscent of their prototype with wood frames propping up faux thatched roofs and casual seating. The food, however, was a culmination of the superlative tastes of all these regional dhabas, particularly from Northern India covering Punjabi and Mughlai cuisines.

Mughlai cuisine is a culinary legacy of the Moghul rule in India that spanned about 200 years (16^th to 18^th centuries AD). One of its famed contributions that is arguably one of the most delicious dishes in the world is Biryani. In India, the taste of Mughlai dishes is still popularly favoured. One can find regional versions of many of its dishes, including the ubiquitous biryani in just about any part of India.

The Do Pyaza was one such delicacy that was always a Mughlai favourite at the dhabas we frequented in Bombay back then. While no one questioned why the Do Pyaza was listed under Mughlai dishes at that time, it appears to be a point of debate amongst some recently because of its use of tomatoes in the dish. Tomatoes add great complexity, contributing acidity and umami flavours that balance the various flavours and add depth to the tasting experience. The debate arises from the knowledge that tomatoes were introduced to India by European traders, not the Moghuls. In particular, it is said that the Portuguese who only arrived in India in the 16^th century were the ones who introduced tomatoes to India. Hence, it is debated that the Do Piaza could not have Moghul origins. However, it is well known that the Moghuls and Portuguese traded with each other. Could it not be possible, therefore, that the Moghuls adopted the use of tomatoes into their cuisine? I mean, if it improves the dish, why not? So, I still feel comfortable giving the Moghuls origin rights on this dish.

Now, let’s talk about the name. You’ll notice this recipe is called Ghosht Do Pyaza (pronounced: gho-sh-doh-pee-yah-zah). Let’s start with the word ghosht (gho-sh), which means meat. The popular choice of protein for this dish is usually mutton, which in India equates to goat meat, not lamb, as many confuse it to be. The other option is chicken, in which case, the dish would be called Murgh Do Pyaza. Murgh (pronounced: moor-gh) means chicken. This is also delicious, but it cannot be denied that the chemistry of onions, tomatoes and spices in a Do Pyaza tends to favour red meat. As it turns out, beef makes an unbelievably tasty Do Pyaza too. Therefore, when using any kind of meat other than chicken, it would be safe to call the dish Ghosht Do Pyaza, as we have done in this recipe.

Next, let’s get to the meaning of Do Pyaza. In Hindi, as in Urdu (a Moghul influence), the word “do” (pronounced: doh) means two. “Pyaz” (pronounced: pee-yaaz) means onion(s). Therefore, some believe that the dish is called Do Pyaza because its recipe includes two onions. Well, this makes no sense at all because the amount of onions would depend on the amount of protein you are working with. Also, onions differ in size.

Another version of an origin tale suggests the recipe calls for two types of onions. I happen to prefer the use of two types of onions myself, as you will notice in the recipe. Regular yellow onions are perfect to give the recipe its foundation, as they break down well with the rest of the ingredients. I prefer using red onions as a finishing touch because they hold their structure better and add texture to the dish. However, regular onions would work as well. Therefore, I do not believe this could be the reason why the dish is called Do Pyaza. Besides, local markets in India seldom offer the variety of onions available in North American grocery stores. The onion one usually finds in India is a version akin to a shallot and a red onion. So, if historically, India did not have a variety of onions to choose from, I doubt the dish would call for two types of onions.

There is yet another tale claiming naming rights. It is said that there was a man named Mulla Do Piaza during the reign of Emperor Akbar, whom this dish was named after. I am not a culinary historian, but those who are, claim no such man existed, at least in relation to the dish.

So, what do I believe? With debatable versions lacking credible facts, I believe the dish is called Do Pyaza because of a simple reason: the addition of onions in two distinct steps in the recipe. While this version does not make for a sensational or romanticized nostalgic story, the fact of adding onions at two distinct stages is what gives the dish its distinctive taste, flavour and texture.

Now, is this a traditional recipe? Yes, and no. Yes, because most of its ingredients are traditionally used. No, because some are not traditional, but add much complexity to the dish. For example, tomato paste is not traditional, but adding it saves the time it would take to concentrate the flavours of all those tomatoes while balancing the fresh juiciness from the diced tomatoes. Then, the use of vinegar is arguably an European influence, but trust the recipe. Finishing the dish with vinegar amplifies the flavours to perfection! Also, I have incorporated the use of a pressure cooker in the recipe. While not a traditional appliance historically, one may as well consider it traditional as it is a culinary staple in just about every Indian kitchen nowadays. Please don’t fret if you do not have a pressure cooker because I have included a variation in the recipe using an oven and a stovetop.

I must admit this is a lengthy recipe. Like anything in life, patience pays off. This recipe yields a generous 8 to 10 portions, so it makes for a great feast. However, it is known to taste better one to two days later, so even if you do not make it for a small crowd, you can indulge in delicious leftovers for a while. The virtues of this dish continue in the fact that it freezes well too. So, investing the time in making this dish is truly worthwhile. And, while there is much debate over the origins of this dish, we can all close in agreement that a Do Pyaza is always delicious!